Trailer brakes

Tow Rig, Diesel and Trailer Tech Discussion

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shmoken875
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Trailer brakes

Post by shmoken875 » Thu Aug 12, 2010 12:00 am

I don't really know S about F when it comes to trailers or trailer brakes. I think to tow clifford I'd be looking for a 16ft-ish dual 3500lb axle'd trailer. Towing the Uhaul trailer with surge brakes felt fine to me, I'm not sure how they compare with electric. What is the [reasonably] ideal setup in the towing world?
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TerryD
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Post by TerryD » Thu Aug 12, 2010 5:26 am

For a tag along, tandem axle, just the rear axle braking is how ours are set up. Brake box under the dash. Unless the truck is already wired for it, you'll have to run a power wire to the back of the truck, but Chevy usually has the harness hidden under the dash so all you have to do is attach the brake box to it. Does the truck already have a factory trailer light hookup? The brakes come already setup and wired on the trailers that require them.

When you go to buy the trailer, make sure you measure outside to outside of you axles to make sure your tires will clear the fenders or rails on the trailer. It's the pits ruining your fenders driving over them all the time.
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Arya Ebrahimi
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Post by Arya Ebrahimi » Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:11 am

You're on the right track with a 16' 3500lbs axle'd trailer.

Brakes on one axle is sufficient, but brakes on both is better(more is better, duh :mrgreen: )

Take into consideration what ELSE you would like to use the trailer for. I have an open center car trailer, and while it's perfect for hauling the mini-truck, I repeatedly find myself wishing it had a full floor for hauling non-cars. On the flip side, because it's an open center and very light I can move my trailer around literally by hand. When I unhook the trailer the tongue never hits the ground, just floats. Makes it very convenient.

I'm actually debating selling it(Trow has dibs) in favor of a 14k rated equipment type trailer so I can borrow bobcats/backhoes from work if I need to :twisted:

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Post by willhf1011 » Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:41 am

Arya Ebrahimi wrote:
....in favor of a 14k rated equipment type trailer so I can borrow bobcats/backhoes from work if I need to :twisted:
This.

For ultimate versatility I think a 10k tandem with brakes on both and a full floor is great. Heavier in many ways is always better, other than hurting your mileage a bit.

I would want brakes on both axles in any situation, it really is nicer. Your truck is prewired for trailer brakes, all you have to do is plug in a controller.
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zach119
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Post by zach119 » Thu Aug 12, 2010 12:49 pm

I would honestly try and get a trailer with brakes on both axles. We have two of these exact trailers for trenchers, bobcats, etc. The best thing about them is that they are something like 3 inches wider than what is legal between the fenders than some other trailers we have because North Carolina has a different legal road width.

http://www.kaufmantrailers.com/heavy-eq ... d-p31.html
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shmoken875
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Post by shmoken875 » Thu Aug 12, 2010 1:20 pm

Does the truck already have a factory trailer light hookup? The brakes come already setup and wired on the trailers that require them.
Yea I made sure to get the factory towing package. Thats good I didn't really wan't to have a brake controller hanging off my dash, I want to keep this truck stock and clean.
When you go to buy the trailer, make sure you measure outside to outside of you axles to make sure your tires will clear the fenders or rails on the trailer. It's the pits ruining your fenders driving over them all the time
Yea I measured for the Uhaul trailer, I think I'm right around high 70"s or at 80", can't recall. It slid onto that trailer fine and I think the width limit was listed around 80"
Take into consideration what ELSE you would like to use the trailer for. I have an open center car trailer, and while it's perfect for hauling the mini-truck, I repeatedly find myself wishing it had a full floor for hauling non-cars.
For ultimate versatility I think a 10k tandem with brakes on both and a full floor is great. Heavier in many ways is always better, other than hurting your mileage a bit.

I would want brakes on both axles in any situation, it really is nicer. Your truck is prewired for trailer brakes, all you have to do is plug in a controller.
I will deffinitely be pursuing a full floor, but I don't think I'll be needing to buy a trailer with enough capacity for a bobcat or anything. Thats what landscaping friends are for :mrgreen:

The best thing about them is that they are something like 3 inches wider than what is legal between the fenders than some other trailers we have because North Carolina has a different legal road width.

http://www.kaufmantrailers.com/heavy-eq ... d-p31.html
I like that mfg Zach, seem like good prices too. What should a new or used 7k dual brake'd trailer run? That new price looks pretty good to me.
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zach119
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Post by zach119 » Thu Aug 12, 2010 1:36 pm

We did alot of searching and you can get a 7000lb trailer from them for about $300 cheaper IIRC. As far as that brand goes they definitely make quality trailers, and I'm not sure how it would work where you are in Maryland but they will deliver them right to us.
-Zach

2003 Ford F150 work truck piece of crap- sold
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Post by zach119 » Thu Aug 12, 2010 1:40 pm

shmoken875 wrote:
Does the truck already have a factory trailer light hookup? The brakes come already setup and wired on the trailers that require them.
Yea I made sure to get the factory towing package. Thats good I didn't really wan't to have a brake controller hanging off my dash, I want to keep this truck stock and clean.
Just an FYI Randy you still need to hook a box to the wiring, he just means the 4 wires needed are already ran to a central location under your dash ready to be hooked up.
-Zach

2003 Ford F150 work truck piece of crap- sold
1998 Dodge Ram, 35s, 456s- sold
2000 Powerstroke tow rig on DUBs- once rolled- sold
2004 Dodge Ram Hemi tow rig
1995 YJ on BLOCKS

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Post by Jwlman » Thu Aug 12, 2010 2:10 pm

shmoken875 wrote: Yea I measured for the Uhaul trailer, I think I'm right around high 70"s or at 80", can't recall. It slid onto that trailer fine and I think the width limit was listed around 80"
Any future plans for bigger tires or perhaps beadlocks with less backspacing? Might want to have a few inches to spare just incase

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Post by shmoken875 » Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:04 pm

dodgeguy119 wrote:We did alot of searching and you can get a 7000lb trailer from them for about $300 cheaper IIRC. As far as that brand goes they definitely make quality trailers, and I'm not sure how it would work where you are in Maryland but they will deliver them right to us.
I'm liking this more and more
Just an FYI Randy you still need to hook a box to the wiring, he just means the 4 wires needed are already ran to a central location under your dash ready to be hooked up.
Damn, ignorance got the better of me
Any future plans for bigger tires or perhaps beadlocks with less backspacing? Might want to have a few inches to spare just incase
Yea, I've had immediate plans to get beadlocks for the past 3 years lol.
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Post by VerticalTRX » Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:23 am

If you're looking to buy new also look at Hudson brand trailers http://www.hudsontrailers.com They are also built in NC and are a top quality, commercial grade trailer at a competitive price. The way you can tell if a trailer is well made is by jumping up and down on the front corner the trailer. If it deflects up/down more than an inch or two that means it doesn't have much torsional rigidity. Go try that test on some of the cheap brand trailers, then on a Hudson or Kaufman and you will see what I mean. I have a cheap 1970's vintage 4-ton equipment trailer that has a twisted frame from not being well constructed, and while it doesn't effect the use of the trailer I hate to look at it. If you plan on using it a lot it's worth buying something good.
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Post by hklvette » Mon Aug 16, 2010 1:29 pm

VerticalTRX wrote:If you're looking to buy new also look at Hudson brand trailers http://www.hudsontrailers.com They are also built in NC and are a top quality, commercial grade trailer at a competitive price. The way you can tell if a trailer is well made is by jumping up and down on the front corner the trailer. If it deflects up/down more than an inch or two that means it doesn't have much torsional rigidity. Go try that test on some of the cheap brand trailers, then on a Hudson or Kaufman and you will see what I mean. I have a cheap 1970's vintage 4-ton equipment trailer that has a twisted frame from not being well constructed, and while it doesn't effect the use of the trailer I hate to look at it. If you plan on using it a lot it's worth buying something good.
Also, paying up-front isn't so bad not just for quality reasons, but also because good trailers don't depreciate like cars do, which helps if you ever need to sell it.
-Henry

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Post by Fonger » Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:08 pm

Nobody has mentioned it, maybe it just goes unsaid, but I'll make sure to say it. Avoid surge brakes like the plague. They're perfect for harry homeowner that will only use a trailer once in a while, but you'll hate them. Just try to back your rig up a hill and you'll understand.

Oh yeah, my pops has a 16' dual 3500-pound axle trailer with brakes only on the back axle and that thing is sweet. We've hauled everything from zero-turn mowers, to Porsche's, to my dad's white '00 F-350 crew cab long bed on that trailer and it works fine. Get an 10k trailer if you want but this 7k is kickin' just fine. Oh yeah, it was made by Mid-Atlantic Trailers, which I think is now out of business, but a flawless trailer none the less.
I feel like a hundred bucks...

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shmoken875
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Post by shmoken875 » Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:17 pm

Found a 10k deck between the wheels trailer just like the one that used to camp out in Trows backyard for $1000. Its got electric brakes (1 axle), tires are <3 years old with no dry rot and plenty of tread.

I think its a little over 10yrs old, has a bit of surface rust (just the scaly stuff not flaky). Probably needs the wood deck replaced, no spare, and has the heavy ramps like the one in Trows yard. Sound like a fair price?
Last edited by shmoken875 on Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Arya Ebrahimi » Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:21 pm

I paid $1250 for my open center car hauler w/ brakes on one axle and no spare. People tell me I stole that trailer....

Take it for what it's worth.







BTW, if you decide to pass on it, where is this trailer? :flipoff2:

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